Greetings from The Gambia!

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I’ve been in country since October 10th and am fully immersed in the two-month Pre-Service Training phase of my 27-month Peace Corps assigment. Our focus is learning the language and culture, as well as a variety of orientation sessions and introduction to health and agriculture topics. 

There are 39 volunteers in my training cohort - half are focusing on health and half on ag/environment. But realistically, we may be doing some of both or even some other things depending on the need of the community we will be placed in after the training period. Next week we will learn the name of our permanent village, and will visit it for a couple days in mid November, before making the permanent move in mid December. I'm very interested to learn more about my fate!

Most days I meet with two other volunteers and our Language and Culture Facilitator (aka LCF) named Gibril to work on language. I’m learning the Wolof language. Although English is the official language and Mandinka is probably the first language for the greatest number of Gambians, Wolof is helpful in that it is a common language in the capital city area and also in Senegal. 

We arrived during the hottest month of the year, which means 100 degree days, off the charts humidity and 80+ degree nights most of the time. My USB-powered mini fan is my most precious belonging next to my bed net. The mosquitoes haven’t been bad at all, but I share a space with an unlimited supply of earwigs and other such things and am happy to be able to crawl into a Safe Space under my net and get a good night’s sleep. I have a private bath/latrine area behind my room and yes, I do indeed poop in a hole. Bucket baths are quite nice and refreshing at all hours of the day. I get my bath water from an open well and my drinking water (which is put through a ceramic filter and then treated with 1-2 drops of bleach) from a hand pump or tap - although the tap water is only turned on at certain times and there doesn’t seem be any set schedule. It’s only worked once for me.

Typical homestead - I have a room in a bldg like this

My room

My backyard/bathing area

Four of the five kids in my host family

The food has generally been quite good, although we’ve been told to really appreciate what we have because it may not be as good at our permanent site because (1) our family may have fewer resources and ability to buy food to supplement/diversify the diet, and (2) there are many months during the year when fruits and vegetables are hard to come by. Meals are typically shared using a large bowl, with everyone eating with their hands most often. It’s also ok to use a spoon, which I do about half the time. Fish is probably the most common protein - they have a small boney fish that is super abundant and cheap, as well as more expensive fleshy types - but we also see beef and chicken fairly frequently. And rice, always rice, almost every meal. Haven’t had goat yet, but expect that will come at some point especially if there is some sort of celebration. I get an egg, boiled or fried up as an omelet in lots of oil, most mornings. And they have really tasty baguettes we get fresh from the bakery most mornings, although that is likely a perk of living near a large town (Soma) that I may not have as readily available at my permanent site.

Typical lunch - this is called Benachin

Gambians name their children in a naming ceremony one week after they are born, and we each had a naming ceremony one week after we arrived in our training villages. My name is Bakotu Dunpha. I’m named after the grandmother in my family. I will likely continue to use this name at my permanent site, although I will change my last name to the family’s name, because it is easier for Gambians to pronounce/remember. 

I’ve given some thought to trying to describe the lifestyle here. For those of you who have done wilderness camping, I think it’s similar to that. You have few things so you make do with what you have. You live with the elements (weather, bugs, dirt, lack of plumbing) so you make do with - and accept/appreciate - what you have. I get to do that for 2+ years!

In some ways it doesn’t feel quite real yet. I’m still hanging out with a bunch of Americans and have tons of help and support from the teaching/training staff. I think reality will kick in come mid December when I ship out to my permanent site!

What’s App is the best way to reach me, but Gmail also works. The # for my What’s App account is +220 288 8757. I can receive mail/packages too, although things take 1-2 months to get here I’m told, and a small bubble package sent via DHL probably costs @ $15-$20. The mailing address is 

Karen Tarnow PCV

c/o U.S. Peace Corps
PMB 527, Serekunda

The Gambia, WEST AFRICA

I’ll try to post smaller updates every now and then, hopefully with pictures to give you a better sense of the place. Until then - be well, have peace, and hope the mid terms aren’t driving you crazy :)